Welcome to the world of Indian antique Kashmir shawls. By the Kashmiris themselves, they are known as kani shawls. Kani signifies the weaving technique employed to weave them. It is a labor intensive process that is technically called, double-interlocked, twill tapestry. This combined with their fine pashmina and extraordinary dyes is what makes the Kashmir shawl so sought after.

Their popularity as a warm floral- patterned swath of pashmina goes back at least to Akbar’s imperial rule (1553-1605).

Although millions have been produced commercially and exported throughout the world, only a tiny fraction of kani shawls ever measure up to the high quality standards by which the finest are known to the cognoscenti and collectors. With India’s burgeoning economy over the past few decades, many new collectors conscious of their heritage and eager to acquire rare pieces, are emerging.

The main focus of my work and research over the past 40 years has been rare and historic textiles. This includes Middle-Eastern/Islamic, European and especially rare shawls from Kashmir. My latest book, Woven Masterpieces of Sikh Heritage (pub. 2010), represents the culmination of my research in this field. Yet, as new and exciting pieces come on the market-albeit rarely- probing questions on iconography will continue to arise.

How does one know if a textile is of historic value? Answering this question requires  some experience. The most direct answer would be that a textile is historic if it’s accompanied by detailed documentation testifying to its provenance, say having belonged to a famous person or head of state. Whatever  it is, if it’s not of great aesthetic quality or beauty, its value is diminished proportionately. Like all textiles produced over the centuries a certain number were made or commissioned for wealthy clients, potentates, maharajas, or religious leaders. These were the fine raiments that stood out from all the others by their beauty, fineness, and colors -all of which might easily dispel any doubt of their being produced under unique circumstances of artistic development.

In general, antique square shawls (rumals) come between 5 and 6 feet square while long ones are approximately 5 feet wide and 10 to 11 feet long, provided they haven’t been reduced in size. Other size variations can be found in the kani prayer mats. Long shawls were almost always made in pairs, an ancient method that engendered the designation, dochalla (two shawls). Since the publication of my first book The Kashmir Shawl and its Indo-French Influence (1986, revised 1997) which illustrated hundreds of rare pieces, I have personally encountered many ‘sister’ dochalla pieces to those found in private and institutional collections.

My interest in textiles began while living in Paris for many years. I returned to the States in 1986, where my business is conducted by appointment only. Consulting, appraising, researching and curating are an important and  integral part of my work.

Please call or email  for any queries  or  for any feedback you care to share. Thank you for your visit.

Frank Ames